Covid's third wave

I've not written too much about Covid-19, in part because Senegal had pretty much escaped its grip until recently and so it was having little impact on my day-to-day life (well, apart from it costing me my job of course!).  However, we now have our third wave of the virus in Senegal, and it is much worse than the first and second waves.  A couple of weeks ago our new daily case count shot up from 40 to some 1,300, and whilst it now hovers around 600-700 a day, they are also reporting that the test centres are overwhelmed and turning people away, that Dakar's hospitals are full, and that there is no oxygen left which has been responsible for some of the recent deaths.  Restrictions are slowly being reintroduced; the Senegalese wrestling match I'd planned to go to this Saturday has been cancelled, masks are now compulsory in the street as well as on public transport and in the shops, and there is talk of international and long-distance transport being stopped.  I can't imagine that concerts and nightclubs will be able to continue for much longer.

So this week I've stayed at home rather more than I would have in normal times (there doesn't seem much point in risking a crowded bus when mask-wearing has still to be fully enforced) - but hadn't banked on the virus visiting the apartment where I live.

One of my flatmates is a young French woman, who likes to party.  Not long after moving in she had a two-day-long cocaine- and alcohol-fuelled binge with a few friends in her room - didn't really bother me but the Senegalese flatmate who sublets to us knew who the friends were, and was not happy (the Congolese friend is apparently a known local drug-dealer).  So the French woman was instructed not to bring them here again, and now meets them elsewhere (including out in the street in front of our building) and sometimes comes home in the early hours drunk and/or under the influence of  various drugs, including (we think) marijuana, cocaine and ecstasy.  Her poorly controlled behaviour has already resulted in her getting an infected foot (infected somehow by sea urchin spines!?) and being robbed of both her camera and two mobile phones in three separate events, and I sent an irritated message to her this morning when I found that the kitchen light had been left on all night as well as the gas burning away under an empty saucepan.  She admitted responsibility and apologised, but explained that she felt ill - and asked whether I could make enquiries about her getting a Covid test.

Fortunately our Senegalese flatmate was able to organise a private test for her through her employer's insurance scheme, so two medics showed up and did the test here.  Strongly positive.  So the rest of us also got tested, and were relieved to find that we were negative - although I was intrigued to be told that my test showed that I had been exposed to the virus but had successfully fought it off, possibly aided by the first shot of the AstraZeneca vaccine that I had in early April.  Thankfully some more AZ vaccine is expected in the country next week, so I should finally be able to get my second shot.

So, a day of drama!  Of course the infected flatmate has been instructed to stay in her room, but as we don't trust her to do so, my other flatmate is  trying to use her employer insurance cover to somehow find somewhere else for her to go asap.  Not sure that she'll have much luck given that all Dakar hospitals are supposed to be full.

This evening I had planned to go up to a nearby hotel roof terrace where a DJ plays good dance music every Thursday evening, but I know people there will not be wearing masks and so have decided to be more sensible and spend another evening in my room.  It will be interesting to see where all this heads - how badly the country will be hit - whilst feeling comforted at a personal level that the risk for me seems relatively low.

doing touristy stuff

 


A post in a Senegal facebook group asked if anyone wanted to join a small group of people who were planning a day out to Bandia Nature Reserve and Accrobaobab, as they had space in their vehicle.  Two touristy places (the nature reserve mostly filled with animals imported from South Africa), but I hadn't been to either and it seemed like a better use of my time than yet another day staring at my laptop screen.  Thankfully they turned out to be a nice group of people (from Senegal, the US and Cape Verde) and the social side went smoothly.

At the reserve we took a two-hour tour (that turned into closer to three hours as the guide had to wait for feeding time to find the white rhino), in the back of an open vehicle that allowed us all to get the photos we wanted - imported impala, nyala, eland, roan antelope, kudu, zebra, giraffe, ostrich and buffalo, alongside native creatures such as warthog, patas and vervet monkeys, crocodiles and of course birds.

There are no predators in the 3,500-hectare reserve (hyenas are kept separately in a fenced-in enclosure) and the animals allow the vehicles to get reasonably close.  It didn't feel particularly authentic - especially once we saw some stacks of food which had been delivered whilst we were in a different section of the park - but of course it is always nice to look at such animals and some pictures, such as this of the roan antelope, do at least look authentic!

After the tour, I quickly went round the reptile house (which included a beautiful green mamba and another snake whose name I missed that burrowed itself entirely under the sand), and we stopped for an early lunch overlooking a large watering hole, keeping a watching eye on the green vervet monkeys which loiter and run on to the tables to steal food when people look away.  I'm afraid I wasn't a very good vegetarian today as I couldn't resist the antelope burger.

After lunch we moved on to the nearby Accrobaobab - an 'adventure playground' amongst the baobab trees.  Not really my thing - zip-lining between baobab trees has never been on my bucket list - but some of the others were keen to have a go, and rather than just sit there waiting for them I decided I had to participate!  Not the seven-stage, $29, affair that they were signing up for, just the single $7.50 zip-line down a 315 metre descent from a platform 24 metres up in a baobab tree.

I signed the waiver form, ticking the box to confirm that I have Senegalese-compliant public liability insurance (cough, cough) and they put on my harness.  Apparently it all complies with European safety standards, but I notice that the form said we would have a compulsory trial run, and that never happened.  Rather we walked a little way through the forest and then were faced with a tall baobab tree with a very rickety-looking wood-and-rope ladder up to the platform.  The instructor duly clipped me onto the safety harness and I made my way (slowly!) up the ladder ... this was the view I then had back down to the ground:

The instructor followed, attached me to the zip-line, and told me to go.

What a moment!!  I knew I was properly attached, and the equipment all looked to be in great condition ... but to just step off the platform into the void like that??!  Every fibre of my body was telling me not to do it ... but of course I had to, and as soon as I did I started sliding down the line, feeling very safe and very glad I'd taken the plunge!  This is me at the end of the course, feeling rather pleased with myself!